Thursday 19th September.
50kms. Hotel Grand est,
Myieux to Morestel. Great day. We packed up and left the hotel. Made it through
the industrial area. A bit tricky trying to find our way with the Google map
directions and stopped in Janneyrias for lunch in a park. A man came over and
insisted on giving us bread for lunch – he went away and bought a gorgeous big
baguette from the bakery. He was a cyclist and it was a lovely act of
generosity in his lunch break. Really cheered us up as were finding the
navigation a bit stressful. Carried on and got totally lost and fed up in
Charvieu-Chavagneux and even with the phone we struggled to sort it out.
Coninued to Pont-de-Cheruy where we resorted to going to McDonalds just to get
the Wi-fi to have a good look at the map. It was great - it suddenly occurred
to us that Google was pointing us to everysmall off-road possible to avoid
traffic, and that if we took the actual D roads connecting the towns we would
have more traffic but it would be more direct. Gave it a try anyway and
certainly started to make good progress. Traffic no worse than any New Zealand
road and just a relief to know where we were as the signposting also improved
dramatically.
Soon arrived in a town called Cremieu – a beautiful Medieval
town complete with fortified castle and restored buildings – simply gorgeous
and likewise the scenery from there on was absolutely beautiful and great
riding just as you would imagine from village to village in France. After
looking around Cremieu we made good progress, arriving into Morestel about 5pm.
Bought groceries and found the camp easily. It was very low key in the centre
of town and we were the only ones there apart from a nice French couple. Very
quiet. Remembered that European campgrounds have no tables or seats – or toilet
paper – so had to adjust. John went back to the shop for the toilet paper. Dark
about 7.30pm so early night.
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| Pusignan |
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| Janneyrias |
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| Cremieu |
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| Castle above Cremieu |
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| Biking towards Morestel |
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| Watch for children with footballs! |
Morestel to Chanez. 50kms. A second fabulous day of French
cycling. Incredible. Left quite late after a dewy morning. Entertained by the
French PE classes taking place in the adjoining sports field.
Got away about 11am and climbed very gently all day and
discovered the Via Rhona (Rhone Cycleway) near Evieu and jumped on it. Gorgeous
and relaxed since it became obvious that there were multiple free-camping sites
on the trail. Were on the cycleway almost 30kms and then the bridge to Belley
was closed (near the amazing fortified castle on the hill) so ended up in Yenne
and that was lovely as we took the absolutely gorgeous road through the town of
Lucey!
Were heading to Culoz but arrived in the tiny village of Chanez and it
was truly so beautiful – on a canal with a little bridge across – and there was
a campground right there on the other side of the canal – that we decided to
stay. Checked that there was a food shop and there was and then went and had a
beer at a bar on the canal. The barman was mad! Certainly entertained us… We
were abit stuck as to how to get to the camp so thought we would just take the
bikes across a bridge when a guy came up and indicated to us that there was
another bridge just a wee way down – very helpful as we thought it was several
kms away. Biked round and camped and then went back to the shop and had bread
and cheese and ham and salad on the picnic table by the river – lovely. Happy
time after the stress of the last few days.
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| Drying out after dewy morning |
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| French PE class playing Le Rugby! |
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| Via Rhona (Rhone Cycleway) rest area |
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| View from Via Rhona |
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| Via Rhona |
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| Via Rhona |
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| Large fortified Castle at top of cliff! Cornfields and more cornfields |
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| Gorge (and tunnel) between Via Rhona and Yenne |
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| Turning onto road to Lucey! |
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| Chateau de Lucey |
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| Town of Lucey |
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| Auberge de Lucey (restaurant/ hotel) |
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| Chanez - beautiful |
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| On top of canal bridge at Chanez - camp on right bank underneath |
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| Bar in Chanez |
Chanez to Marceau, Doussard, Annecy. 60kms. Another dewey
morning packing up but departed Chanez in the sunshine at about 10am. Big
morning – but beautiful – riding to Chindrieux and then over the Col de
Chambotte. Weren’t really expecting such a hilly climb and it was certainly
steep and precipitous but also amazing. There was a rocky summit with a big cross
and a tunnel in true European style. The pass was 650 metres and we had lunch
at the top. Then a gorgeous ride down through the valley – stopped for coffee
and the kids had amazing meringues at Albens. It was a nice break. There was a
fountain and a church and straightforward from there to Annecy in terms of
route-finding.
Carried on after that on a steady climb upwards and near the
top of a hill a van pulled over and it was a couple from Alby who we followed
down (really steeply down!) into the gorgeous Medieval village and they gave us
apple juice and we met their neighbours who gave us plums and then the other
couple arrived who had just come back from cycle-touring with their three
children in New Zealand. Spent about an hour there in the street chatting in
half French and half English. It was such a random spontaneous detour and they
were all lovely people. The town had its own well and a wedding went past and
everyone seemed to live in the main street.
We then crossed out back onto the busy main road into Annecy
and it was rather uphill until Seynod, where we stopped to check directions and
get groceries – which took ages as I got to the counter to find out that I
needed to weigh the vegetables and fruit so had to queue again, though the guy
on the checkout helped me heaps by holding and putting through the other stuff.
Got through Annecy after that – very busy and another wedding waving and
tooting at us – funny. Onto the cycleway around the lake – relief and a lot
less busy.
About 5kms before the cycleway ended, a road cyclist rode up
and asked where wewere going and if we were staying at his friend’s house –
Mondher!! And it turned out to be Mondher’s friend Stefan who then rode with
his other friendall the way to Doussard with us and then Stefan took us all the
way to Lee and Mondher’s which was amazing as it was a long way and we were
slow getting up the hills at the end – very worn out after the Col de
Chambotte… Got here and it was 7.30pm by then and still Stefan helped us to get
the key which was lovely of him.
FABULOUS apartment with gorgeous surroundings and we had a
lovely meal and looked forward to a day of doing nothing the following day.
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| Morning on canal |
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| 'Fishing' in the canals of Chanez |
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| Croissants with a friendly dog |
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| Climbing the Chambotte... |
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| Still climbing the Chambotte |
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| Col de Chambotte |
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| Lunch with Lucy biscuits at the top |
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| View back down to lake and castle |
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| View back behind us |
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| Our friends in Alby sur Cheran |
Sunday 22nd September
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| First lunch at Lee and Mondher's |
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| John preparing dinner |
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| Relaxing |
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| Sunset |
Rang Dad on Skype. Went hiking to la Combe. Just an
absolutely perfect day in the French Alps. Left about 10am from here and walked
up to the village of Saury just up the road and then about three hours up to
the Chalet de la Charbon. Absolutely perfect weather and we had lunch with a
guy from Dijon and then went further up for a perfect view of Mount Blanc and
the surrounding alps and came down again about 3.30 or 4pm. Back in Saury about
6pm.
Kids did really well as was a substantial walk and some technically
challenging rock paths at the top. Dramatic and beautiful walk. Some older men
were having a ball at the chalet eating raclette and a big French lunch and
drinking red wine – they struggled a little on the walk down – but very
friendly. Got back and John had to go to the shop and then we had dinner. All
quite tired.
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| La Combe in early morning |
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| River on walk to Saury |
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| Stop on the walk up to La Combe |
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| Forest |
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| Hugh attacking the limestone band |
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| Lucy on layback... |
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| The actual route up - spot us halfway up on path! |
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| The path through the limestone band |
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| Arriving at meadow below Chalet du Charbon |
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| Leaving Chalet de la Charbon after lunch with the cows |
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| Mt Blanc from above the chalet |
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| Route up to col above the chalet |
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| Above the chalet |
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| Hugh and Mt Blanc |
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| Sound of Music |
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| Above the road we will be biking out on to Chamonix |
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| Looking towards Annecy from near La Croix de Roi |
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| Us |
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| View towards west |
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| Lucy on way down |
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| La Combe |
Another relaxed day waiting for John’s bike tyre to arrive
on the courier. The children and I will go the village and get crosissants for
lunch.Some schoolwork and fishing off the deck.
John’s bike wheel arrived by courier which was great.
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| Dessert from the Patsserie in Doussard |
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| Croissant lunch |
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| Hugh's pink cochon - basically iced pink pavlova! |
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| Lucy's strawberry and white chocolate dessert |
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| Tart au Citron! |
Wednesday 25th September
40kms. Went into Annecy about 10am. Really good quick ride
in and made it in time to look at a few
shops before siesta. We went to a patisserie and bought lunch and sat in the
park – really nice. Looked around Annecy some more and biked back by about
4.30pm and watched parapenters land and then went into the Shopi and then home.
Another nice evening. I made quiche which was a treat!
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| Annecy |
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| Annecy Cycleway - a dream - 20kms on the lakeside! |
Thursday 26th September
Packed up and rang Mondher and later Lee to finalise
everything and sadly left our little haven in Doussard. It really was a lovely
time there and so good to recharge with the comforts of home. Left the house
about 11.30am and went into the patisserie and the supermarket one last time
and then set out on the cycleway to Ugine. Very flat easy going and made good
time despite being a bit windy and overcast. At Ugine we had a late lunch and
went to the visitor information which was great as we found some open camping
at Demi-Quartier after the lady rang several places for us.
The afternoon turned into quite a challenge with the road up
from Ugine to Mageve through St. Nicholas de Chapelle. Jeepers! Hill and a half
winding up around the gorge and hillside. Really mountainous with several
tunnels at the start and then sunnier and hillier after that into St Nicholas
de Chapellle. Glad to get to Flumet after about 15kms of quite steep climbing.
A bit easier after that. Got groceries before Mageve and then through Mageve to
a gorgeous campsite right up on the hill in Demi-Quartier. It was small and had
a wee chalet for the laundry and toilets and was cute and yes – had a table!
Even better – especially since it was a cool morning.
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| Leaving Lee and Mondher's |
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| Last visit to the Doussard patisserie |
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| Cycleway to Ugine |
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| Climb up above Ugine- reminiscent of Otira Arthur's Pass road |
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| Climb up to Nicolas de Chapelle |
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| Looking back down... |
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| View across valley from campground at Demi-Quartier |
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| Demi-Lune camp at Demi-Quartier |
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| The little chalet for showers and laundry |
Friday 27th September
Feeling confident after the hills the previous day and got
away at 10am sharp for Chamonix! Made very quick progress to Saint Gervais and
it was mostly steeply downhill for about 17kms. Rode confidently on to find
ourselves on a major autoroute to Chamonix but sensed that we weren’t supposed
to be there so rapidly u-turned and got off it – only to have an official
autoroute official pull over with lights flashing to ‘assist’ us off the road…
Pleased to get off it and biked back into Passy where we had come from and were
about to go into a café to internet our route again when a Gendarmerie van
pulled over and asked us about where we were going and how. He then offered the
directions and then offered to escort us 2kms to the turn-off! It was too good
an offer to refuse so we raced behind the policeman and policewoman and their
little van until the steep uphill turnoff to Servos, where we said our friendly
goodbyes and took some pictures…Even though the hill was a rude shock, we
laughed all the way up it! Stopped at a waterfall and carried on up! It was
really hilly. Think the first part was a shortcut so cut straight up the
hill.Eased off after that but still steadily uphill until Servoz where we
stopped for lunch.
Carried on after that and rode up over to Vaudagne – which
both the official and the policeman had warned us was very steep. Well it
absolutely was – and for a long time. Zigzagged up through a tiny settlement
and we though we must have been lost at one stage. Emerging views of Mont Blanc
though and finally seemed to reach the top of the hill and descend down the
other side. Got to Les Houches on the descent and went and had a coffee in a
restaurant. The bar lady had cycled in NZ last year and was lovely. Got
groceries there and carried on an easy 7kms to Chamonix Mont Blanc! Hard to
realise that we had made it. Lovely to be back here.
Went right into the Visitor Centre and the woman was great
and we found the campsite easily after a celebratory beer in the square. Very
close to town and met a guy called Brad when we arrived who is from Nelson so
chatted to him over dinner. Bed.
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| Descending from Demi-Quartier to Saint Gervais |
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| Still descending to St Gervais |
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| Photo taken by road workers on descent |
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| And towards Mont Blanc |
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| Gendarmerie (Police) escorting us out of Passy towards Servoz |
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| Climbing the steep shortcut to Servoz |
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| Lunch at Servoz |
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| Coming up to turnoff to Vaudagne |
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| Steep and winding road up through Vaugagne |
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| Camp at Chamonix-Mt Blanc |
Saturday 28th September
Aiguille de Midi. Got up early and caught the gondola up to
the Aiguille de Midi at 9.30pm. I was a bit totally freaked by the steepness of
it to be honest – made somehow worse by worrying about the children. All made
it to the top and the sun came up and it was phenomenally spectacular and
beautiful and amazing. Spent ages at all the viewing terraces and corridors and
then descended to halfway and had lunch at the Plan de Aguilles and saw some
donkeys which was a highlight for the kids.
Walked to the Montvers Mer de Glace which was about three
hours in the end and then trained down on the cog railway at 4.30pm. Watched a
wedding party arrive just before we left which was entertaining. It was a
fabulous day. Had to go in and get food and then back here to make dinner and
in bed very early.
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| Boarding the telepherique to Aiguille du Midi |
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| Looking up with trepidation |
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| Aiguille du Midi |
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| In caved walkways at top |
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| On terrace |
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| Looking out at climbers |
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| Looking northeast |
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| Hugh on steps down |
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| Looking over valley |
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| Hugh, Lucy, John and baguette |
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| View from terrace |
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| -2 degrees outside |
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| Looking back at the visitor complex |
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| Hugh |
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| Glacier plunging into valley |
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| Keeping Hugh warm |
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| Descent to Plan de l'Aguille! |
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| Glacier descending to valley |
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| Descent to Plan de l'Aiguille |
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| Lucy with donkey friend at Plan de l'Aiguille |
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| Another donkey |
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| The telepherique passing overhead |
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| Three hour walk to Montvers Mer de Glace |
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| Refuge on the way |
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| Les Drus |
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| Parapenters |
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| Approaching Les Drus |
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| Les Drus |
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| Mer de Glace Glacier |
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| View of glacier from The Signal Point |
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| At the top |
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| Hobbitville |
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| Descent to Montvers |
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| Lucy and glacier |
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| Hugh, John and glacier |
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| Cog train arriving to Montvers |
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| On way down - another train ahead |
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| Camping Les Arolles, Chamonix |
Sunday 29th September
Cruisy day today shopping in many outdoor shopsfor jackets
and fleeces. Found some bargains amongst many expensive and exclusive shops and
all good now for some comfort in the winter. At siesta we went on a spontaneous
trip on the train (free with a card from the campground) to Servoz and back
which was great as realised how steeply we had climbed on the way in and also
it was really beautiful on the train trip. Had half an hour in Servoz so walked
into the town a bit and had a coffee at the restaurant and then back to the
train. Into town again by 2.50pm and at least renewed our faith in train travel
following our experience from Paris to Lyon.
I bought a goretex coat and we got some groceries and headed
back. Started to rain quite steadily but hoping it will clear for tomorrow
which the forecast says it should. Certainly chillier than it has been. Hoping to get over the Col de Forclaz to
Switzerland and the Simplon - or maybe now the San Bernadino Pass into Italy in the next couple of days.
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| Clear morning in Chamonix |
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| Brad from Nelson leaving the camp |
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| Glacier from train |
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| Servoz train station |
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| Aiguille du Midi from train |
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| Storm brewing above from train |
